Topic

Churned ice cream and gelato

Freezer bowl and compressor machines churn a liquid base while freezing it. A cold base, a cold bowl and the right fill level decide how smooth the result is.

Freezer bowl
16 to 24 hours at 0 F or colder
Base
chilled to fridge temperature first

Churning freezes the base against a cold wall while the dasher scrapes it off and folds in air. The faster that happens, the smaller the ice crystals and the smoother the ice cream. That is why the base should be fridge cold before it goes in.

A freezer bowl loses cold as it works, so it needs a full freeze and a cold base. Shake the bowl: if you hear liquid sloshing, it is not ready. A compressor keeps cooling the whole time, which helps with dense custards and gelato.

Fresh from the machine, churned ice cream is about as soft as soft serve. For a scoopable texture, move it to a chilled container and harden it in the freezer for a few hours.

Common mistakes

  • Pouring in a warm base straight from the stove.
  • Overfilling: the base expands as it takes in air.
  • Lifting the lid often during the churn, which lets cold out of a freezer bowl.

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